I’ve had my head down in the shop these last couple of weeks. One of the first projects I intended to make out of carbon fiber went on the back burner. I finally got around to making my dash out of carbon fiber, and it weighs in at just over 4 lbs. Later I’ll cut out any openings for gauges, brake bias, and switches. When I make the cuts, I’ll re-sand and clear the the dash, then flock the top portion to eliminate any glare.
The next carbon project was the hatch. To be honest, this basic looking part was pretty tricky.
I love these cool little Quik-Latch mini latches, and they are made right here in the USA!
I went with Aero-Catch latches for the rear. Hood pins have come a log way.
I then focused my attention to less itchy projects. My buddy Kyle (@KCKUHNHAUSEN), is finishing up one insane Z. I reached out to him for a very basic aluminum puck for my jack point. A couple day later this master piece showed up! I wasted no time to getting the puck clear anodized.
The next step was to drill and tap the jack point.
At this point, all I had left was to bolt it on with an ARP stainless 3/8″ bolt.
In my last build update, I finished my LED tail lights. I was eager to see what they look like lit up.
I have been banging my head against the wall with my stainless brake lines. Stainless brake lines are seam welded. In the manufacturing process, they can smooth the exterior weld, but the inside is left with a seam. When I was flaring the tubing, it would leave me with two very small groves on the inside of every flair. I was thinking to myself, “there has to be a way to lap the flair, much like lapping in a valve to a cylinder head”. After searching high and low, I came across this “Koul Tool” specifically for solving this issue.
It’s really easy to use. You just insert the flair into the jig, add some WD-40 on the dimondized 37 degree tip, and rotate the knob with pressure until you have a smooth consistent finish.
Now that I had a good flair and nice finished surface, I needed to pressure test the lines. Earls Plumbing makes a very nice kit, but it was a little out of the budget. So I decided to piece a kit of my own together for about $8. To pressurize the brake line, I needed to cap one end and add a schrader valve on the other.
Next, I added air to the brake line, added water to a mixing cup, submerged each end, and checked for leaks. If you have a leak, it will be very obvious because you will see air bubbles. It’s a good idea to keep an eye on the fitting for about 30 seconds.
After I checked all of my hard lines, I installed them on the car for good. I added little plastic caps to ensure debris stays out of them.
I’m making some serious headway on the car, and it’s a great feeling to install parts for good. I have some really cool features and new sponsors lined up so check back soon and be sure to subscribe/follow. The support has been amazing. Until next time, thanks for the read.