The hardships of building a race car.

TV and the internet do a great job making car builds look easy and quick. A full resto-mod build in less that 30 minutes with a team of 10, wouldn’t that be nice? I live in reality where work, life, time, and funds get in the way. Going on 3 years of building the Z, this is all part of the process. It forces you to take a step back, take a break, and refocus. Then when I do have free time, I can put some serious hours in the car and I know exactly what I need to do.

That being said, I’m back on the grind (again…). That is, until the next speed bump comes along. My last post was about a month and a half ago. I’ve knocked a few to-do’s off the list. One of items on the “to-do” list is to build my motor. It’s still on-going, but I’ll dedicate a post about the engine build later.

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The plan (a lofty plan at that) is to get the chassis off to powder coating by the end of the year. I really have to make sure I  plan ahead for every hole that needs to be drilled, tab welded on, etc. Once you powder coat the chassis, there is no going back and adding a bracket cleanly.

I recently  started working on the fuel lines. I made very tricky work easy with the proper tools. A tube bender, pipe cutter, and a 37 degree flair tool is a must. I was having a hard time justifying the cost of a tube straightener, so I built my own for $9. I decided to go with 3/8″ aluminum fuel line and AN-6 fittings. Cheap fittings can leave you stranded. Earl’s fittings are a worry free choice.

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A Bosch 044 external fuel pump will feed the thirsty LSX motor. The Corvette fuel pressure regulator keeps this fuel system simple with a short return line back to the ATL fuel cell.

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The fuel cell needs to be vented outside of the car.

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3/16″ stainless steel brake lines with AN-3 fittings is a proven set up. You may have noticed two sets of hard lines in the rear of the car. The closest set is for the hand brake.

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The floor pans have been something I’ve been avoiding. It’s back breaking work, but it was time to knock them out for good. I also added 4 threaded bungs for the seat mounts and 4 for the harnesses (per side). This was a milestone job, as there is no more sheet metal work to be done to the body.

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I needed to tie the roof sheet metal into the tube chassis. The main reason is I’ll be cutting most of the factory steel roof sink off. In a sense, I’ll be leaving the OEM roof frame in place to attach a carbon fiber roof later on. So I fabricated some more dimple die gussets.

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The goal weight for the Z is 2,400 lbs. In order to achieve that weight, I want to shed as much weight as I can. A great way to save some weight is ditching the factory glass with polycarbonate (commonly referred to as “lexan”). To attach the polycarbonate whindshield and rear quarter windows, I welded in a bunch of these little tabs into the window frames to later attach the polycarbonate windows to.

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Well that’s all for this post. Keep the comments coming. You guys have been very motivating. I have a little time off coming up. I’m going to lock myself in the shop and get this chassis squared away. I’ll also be checking in with the machine shop on how my rotating assembly is looking. As always, thanks for the read.

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